Oysters – World’s most popular aphrodisiac
In the 1950s, oysters grew wild and abundant in the clear waters of the Zapote River then flowing freely through Barrio Pulanglupa on its way to Manila Bay. The river banks were lined thickly with several kinds of mangrove, in whose exposed roots mussels and oysters attached themselves, creating a sort of natural oyster farm.
Those were the days when the saying “the best things in life are free” was readily understood by barrio folk, who often picked vegetables from neighbor’s backyards, snails from the rice fields and shellfish from the river; free for nothing.
Nature’s bounty surrounded us, untouched by toxic chemicals that later turned the river’s waters murky and eventually wiped out almost all living creatures in it.
Today, this city dweller gets to taste shellfish only at hotel buffets and during out of town trips. We savor every piece, relishing its sensuous texture and the flavor of the ocean filling our senses. Oysters are not to be eaten in a hurry.
APHRODISIAC ATTRIBUTES – Aphrodisiac effects are attributed to oysters for several reasons, the most immediately discernible of which are texture and appearance.
Folklore also connects oysters to Aphrodite (the goddess of love and beauty), for whom aphrodisiacs are named; she is often portrayed emerging from an oyster shell.
Oyster lovers love to point out scientific evidence: oysters possess massive amounts of zinc, which positively affect men’s sperm count and fertility. Oysters are also rich in iron; an iron deficiency could leave one too tired to be in the mood for love.
KEEP THEM ALIVE – The secret to keeping oysters, clams and mussels alive lies in the Tagalog word pabiyay which I grew up understanding to mean “keep alive in water.”
This is the same principle practiced by many European and American shellfish traders who ship their produce wrapped in moist kelp or seaweeds.
Unless oysters are being served within a few hours from purchase, it is best to buy them untouched by tap water and with the least amount of brushing, cleaning and washing. Once home, immerse the oysters in a bucket, pail or bowl of salted water. The brine should approximate the salinity of the sea.
BEST OYSTER RECIPES
Rule #1: The only oyster worth serving is a live one.
Rule #2: The best way to serve an oyster is raw on the half shell with its own liquor and a touch of lemon, calamansi or vinegar.
Rule #3: Get ready to use your fingers.
HOT WATER SHUCK
In Europe and the Americas, oysters are shucked raw and alive by inserting a short oyster knife through the bivalve’s hinges, the back end as Pinoys call the part.
Filipinos, on the other hand, blanch the raw oysters with near-boiling salted water to relax the connecting muscle enough and allow the shells to open a bit. A thin, sharp knife is inserted between the shells on the front rounded end. A twist of the knife and the shells are forced apart.
Blanching is likewise practiced by the unforgettable oyster vendors of Iloilo City’s public market, where they occupy rows and rows of stalls.
Each vendor has a huge cauldron of boiling salted water, into which are briefly swished net bags of crabs, prawns, mussels or oysters. They even offer to shuck the oysters for customers and provide, gratis, a pack of spiced native vinegar for dipping.
The stalls have tables and benches for on-the-spot feasting; a few take the blanched shellfish home for family meals or friendly drinking bouts. I never miss the opportunity to gorge, alone, on a bag of oysters in my hotel room each time I’m in Iloilo. Great with chilled white wine or beer.
VERSATILE TEMPURA
At the Arranque and Divisoria seafood markets, shucked oysters of all sizes are sold by the kilo from oyster farms in Bulacan and Bataan. The big ones are perfect for tempura; the rest go into kinilaw and Chinese Oyster Omelet.
Large oysters, which some aficionados feel too big for one bite, are the best candidates for cooking tempura style. Deep-fried breaded oysters can be served in various ways: as Po’ Boy sandwiches, with Tartar Sauce and French fries, atop a bowl of Ramen, on steamed rice with Tempura Sauce, or with other seafood in a Fritto Misto (mixed seafood) platter.
Start by draining all liquid from shucked large oysters, before shaking them in a bag with flour seasoned with salt, pepper and chicken powder or a mix of preferred herbs and spices. Alternatively, use a large bowl for this step. Lay floured oysters on a tray lines with plastic (glad wrap) or wax paper.
Heat 2 inches of vegetable oil in a frying pan.
Meanwhile, make a batter with seasoned flour and water or beer, to the consistency of condensed milk. Dip each breaded oyster in the batter and carefully drop into the hot oil. Cook until light brown on both sides, taking care not to overcrowd the pan to maintain the oil’s temperature.
Transfer cooked oysters to plates or trays lined with paper to drain excess oil. Serve hot with rice, bread, noodles or plain.
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